THE TRAVELLING HISTORIAN -- SOUTH AMERICA

SOUTH AMERICA
PART 2

Departing Cape Horn
photo by
G. Wilson

With the hump of Cape Horn disappearing in the distance, we headed west and north, our next stop, Ushuaia, (pronounced [u'swaia]) the capital of the Argentine province of Tierra del Fuego, an archipelago of some 76,000 square kilometres. It is surrounded by the South Atlantic Ocean, the Strait of Magellan and the easternmost part of the Pacific Ocean. While the capital city of Ushuaia is in Argentina, most of the main island actually belongs to Chile.

Tierra del Fuego was so named by Ferdinand Magellan, the first European to visit these lands in 1520. Seeing the many fires (fuego in Spanish) of the Amerindians, which were visible from the sea, he believed the Native people were waiting in the forests to ambush his small band. They were, in fact, fires lit by the Yahgan Indians who lived in the southern part of the island, to ward off the low temperatures. Despite the inclement weather, the indigenous people wore little or no clothing, and kept the fires constant to keep them warm. Originally Magellan called the fire-bound forest, "Land of Smoke," but it was later changed to the more exciting, "Land of Fire."

Strait of Magellan

Ushuaia, Argentina
photo by
G. Wilson

Ushuaia Post Office,Argentina
photo by
G. Wilson

Ushuaia originally hosted Argentina's criminal element, the country's most nefarious felons and political prisoners being incarcerated there. Today the population is over 30,000, who find employment from wool, forestry, fishing and tourism. Later it became a naval base. While it retains a rough and ready appearance, its natural beauty, from the Beagle Channel to the surrounding glacial peaks reaching 9000 feet, make it a truly attractive place to visit.

South American glacier named Italia grinding its way into Beagle Channel
photo by
G. Wilson

Beagle Island is a calm, protected stretch of water, rich in wildlife in their natural habitat. A catamaran trip made it possible for us to approach close to the small islands crowded with creatures, that appeared bored by the boats that continually invaded their territory. Seals, sealions and various kinds of birds lounged on the rocks, soaking up the little sunlight that escaped from a sky heavily blanketed with clouds. Cormorants crowded the stony peaks that poked up from the sea, their raucous cries greeting us as we cruised by.

Birds and Beasts on Beagle Channel
photos by
G. Wilson

Our next stop on the way up the coast was Puntus Arenas,("Sandy Point") the most prominent settlement on the Strait of Magellan.

Punta Arenas Square

Statue of Ferdinand Magellan and Four Fuegian Natives

Real Rhea
These are large flightless birds that can reach a height of 1.7 m. Their large wings are spread as it runs and they act like sails. The birds have three toes and are omnivores, eating plants, fruit, insects, small vertebrates and carrion.
photo by
G. Wilson

A popular tour took us to a wildlife preserve for Magellan penquins, notable for the distinctive white-and-black racing stripes on their head and torso. We walked some distance across fields, following paved and unpaved trails, in order to reach the holey havens of these fascinating flightless birds. While always roped off from the penquins, we were able to approach very close to them as they emerged from their holes, strutted about and clustered on the beach. It was bitterly cold, but well worthwhile to watch as they socialized and went about caring for their young. They had to waddle some distance across the grassy, pock-marked plain in order to enter finally, the frigid waters to fish for food for their seemingly insatiable young. Named after Ferdinand Magellan, who first visited the site in 1520, the penquins mate for life. The chicks nestled in shallow holes in the the scrubby landscape, popping out eagerly to greet and eat, when their tireless parents appeared finally with food.